Ten walkable blocks of Sino-Portuguese shophouses on the island's east side, and the single best argument that Phuket is more than a beach. Thalang, Dibuk, Krabi, Phang Nga and Yaowarat roads run in a tight grid of pastel arcaded facades, Taoist shrines, tin-baron mansions and noodle counters that open at six in the morning and sell out by two. It is the cheapest good eating on the island by a wide margin — Michelin has put nearly twenty addresses inside this square kilometre — and it is roughly 40% cheaper than Patong for the same plate. Loud and hot in the middle of the day, genuinely lovely at 8am and again after 5pm.
Who it's for: Anyone who suspects Phuket has more to it than a beach chair — this is where the island's history and its best food both live. Eaters, obviously: the Bib Gourmand density here is absurd for a town this size. Photographers, at first light on Soi Romanee. Anyone travelling on a budget who has been horrified by west-coast prices. Sunday arrivals, for Lard Yai.