One long road and the lanes off it, running southwest from Chiang Mai Gate into Haiya subdistrict. Wua Lai has been the silversmiths' street for roughly two hundred years and still is: single-shophouse workshops with the shutter half up, an old man tapping repoussé into a bowl, a wat at the end of the block clad in hammered metal. Six days a week it is a quiet, slightly scruffy working neighbourhood of noodle shops, motorbike repairs and a converted ice factory full of artists. On Saturday evening the road closes and it becomes the best market in the city.
Who it's for: Anyone who wants Chiang Mai's craft heritage as a live trade rather than a souvenir shelf. Saturday-night market people — this one is calmer and more local than the Sunday one inside the walls. Slow walkers who like turning down a soi to see what is there. Cheap-eats hunters: two of the city's most-cited khao soi shops are within a ten-minute walk of each other here. Anyone based in the Old City who wants somewhere five minutes away that isn't the Old City.