Mexico City

Coyoacán

A colonial village that the city grew around and never quite absorbed: cobbled streets, low painted houses, two linked plazas full of families and balloon sellers, a covered market, and Frida Kahlo's blue house four blocks away. Ten kilometres and about a century from Roma.

Who it's for: Anyone coming for Frida Kahlo, which is most people. Travellers who want colonial streets, plazas, markets and slow wandering rather than another gallery. Families — this is the most kid-friendly part of the city. People doing a lot of walking who want an easy, low-altitude-feeling day.

Things to know

  • Book the Casa Azul weeks ahead — three to four weeks minimum, six to eight in December, Easter or summer. It sells out entirely and there is no walk-up option worth relying on.
  • Weekends are a completely different neighborhood from weekdays: the plazas fill with families, food carts, artisan stalls and street performers. Better atmosphere, much worse crowds. Weekdays are calmer and the museums are easier.
  • Getting here takes 40–50 minutes from Roma or the Centro. Metro Line 3 to Coyoacán or Viveros leaves you a 15–20 minute walk; an Uber is simpler and runs 150–250 MXN.
  • Plan the whole day here rather than squeezing it in. Casa Azul, Trotsky, the market, the plazas and lunch is a full six to eight hours.
  • The Trotsky museum is four blocks from Casa Azul, cheap, never busy, and needs no booking — it's the easiest good decision in the neighborhood.
  • Mercado de Coyoacán is a real market with a souvenir crust: the outer ring is Frida keyrings, the inside is produce, tostadas and household goods. Walk past the edges.
  • San Ángel is 20 minutes west and pairs naturally with Coyoacán, especially on a Saturday for the Bazaar Sábado.
  • Cash for the market, the tostada stalls, the churros and the street carts. Cards work at sit-down restaurants.