Santorini

Perissa, Perivolos & Vlychada

Seven kilometres of black sand along the island's sheltered south coast, and three quite different moods strung along it. Perissa sits tight under the vertical wall of Mesa Vouno, with the cheapest beds on Santorini and a young, backpacker-ish crowd. Perivolos runs south from it into the beach-club belt — sun loungers, DJs, cocktails, day beds you pay real money for. Then the coast turns strange at Vlychada, where wind and rain have carved the pale pumice cliffs into something that looks like melted candle wax, and a small fishing marina sits under it with two of the best fish tavernas on the island. This is Santorini with its shoes off.

Who it's for: Beach people, straightforwardly — this is the best swimming on the island and it is not close. Budget travellers: Perissa is the cheapest place on Santorini to sleep and eat. Anyone who wants a beach club day with a DJ and a day bed. Groups and younger travellers. Photographers, for the Vlychada cliffs. Anyone visiting when the meltemi is blowing, since this coast is the sheltered one.

Things to know

  • This is the best swimming on Santorini. The water shelves gently, it is sheltered from the meltemi by Mesa Vouno, and the combined Perissa–Perivolos strip runs about seven kilometres, so it never feels full even in August.
  • Black sand at 35°C is genuinely dangerous to bare feet by late morning. Bring flip-flops or water shoes and put them on to walk to the sea.
  • Sunbeds work on two models. Most beachfront restaurants and bars give you a set free or nearly free against a minimum food and drink spend; the beach clubs sell packages instead, with day beds and cabanas reported at roughly €20–50, and the premium club end running very much higher.
  • Perissa and Perivolos are the cheapest part of the island to stay and eat by a wide margin — often less than half caldera prices for equivalent quality.
  • Getting to the caldera villages takes real time: 20–30 minutes to Fira by car and longer by bus, and buses hub through Fira, so Perissa to Oia is two services. Budget for that if you are basing here.
  • The Ancient Thera footpath from Perissa is steep, unshaded and much harder than the Kamari side. Go at dawn or not at all in summer, and note the site closes at 15:30 and shuts on Wednesdays.
  • Vlychada is a different beach from the other two — a marina, pale carved pumice cliffs, far fewer facilities, and two seafood tavernas that people drive across the island for. Come for lunch, not for a full sunbed day.
  • The Tomato Industrial Museum at Vlychada runs roughly April to November, Tuesday to Sunday, 10:00–18:00, at €12 adult and €10 reduced. It is closed Mondays and shut over winter.
  • Cash matters more here than on the caldera. Some of the best tavernas — Kiria Roula's at Vlychada in particular — are cash only, and beach sunbed attendants generally want notes.