Žižkov

Žižkovská televizní věž

The highest view in the country, open until midnight — and ten giant bronze babies crawling up the outside of a tower the city used to hate.

Národní památník na Vítkově

A Functionalist monument that held an embalmed Communist president, under one of the world's largest equestrian bronzes — with a free rooftop view over the whole city.

Armádní muzeum Žižkov

Free, newly rebuilt, 7,000 objects across four floors, and candid about Munich, 1948 and 1968 — the best museum-per-crown in Prague by an enormous margin.

U Vystřelenýho oka

The district's emblematic pub — cheap, loud, late, with a beer garden, sitting under Jan Žižka's statue and named after his missing eye.

U Slovanské lípy

Eight rotating taps of Czech microbrewery beer chosen properly — the fastest way to understand that Czech beer is more than Pilsner Urquell.

Olšanské hřbitovy (Olšany Cemetery)

Fifty hectares of wooded cemetery, free, with Jan Palach's grave, the Švejk illustrator, and red squirrels — the biggest quiet green space in inner Prague.

Starý židovský hřbitov na Žižkově (Old Jewish Cemetery, Žižkov)

The Jewish cemetery that replaced the famous one, cleared for a park and then cut through by the TV Tower's foundations — fifteen minutes that recontextualise the whole hill.

Škroupovo náměstí

Prague's only circular square, and the site of the first officially permitted opposition demonstration in twenty years — Havel spoke here a year before he was president.

Nový židovský hřbitov

Nový židovský hřbitov

Kafka's grave, and a large Art Nouveau cemetery whose empty half is the most eloquent thing in it. Free, and almost nobody goes.

Parukářka

A free panorama over the Old Town and castle from a hill the district drinks on — with one of the country's largest nuclear bunkers underneath it.

Kino Aero

Prague's oldest surviving cinema, still independently programmed, where you can carry your beer into the auditorium — and tickets cost less than two drinks on Old Town Square.

Turkestan

Hand-pulled lamb noodle soup and proper Uzbek plov, cheap, in a room full of Central Asians — and no alcohol, which after four days of Czech beer is a feature.

Oblaca

Oblaca

A window seat 66 metres up with the whole city below — and if you were going up the tower anyway, a table here is the better version of the same ticket.

Better Than Clasico

Named opening of the year by the people who watch Prague's restaurant scene hardest — ambitious modern Korean in a district that has never had anything like it.

U Sadu

A 1929 pub with its own beer, a kitchen open into the small hours, and walls invisible under a century of accumulated junk.

BeerGeek Bar

Thirty taps and a five-glass flight that shows you what Czech brewing does when it stops making lager — the contrast that makes the old pubs make sense.

Palác Akropolis

Žižkov's cultural engine since 1995: a music club, a theatre, a restaurant and several bars in one 1927 building, programmed well away from the mainstream.